[Woodcarver] tapered router bit

Joe Dillett jdillett at thecarvingshop.net
Wed Dec 5 17:22:13 EST 2007


Hi Dan,

I have no information about that tapered bit however I believe that it can
be guided with one hand and get up tight to the line without the worry of
chattering. A tapered bit is not prone to chatter like a straight fluted
bits are. That's why it can be guided with one hand.

I use tapered carbide lettering bits, either a 60 or 45-degree taper to a
point at the end. There are many manufactures that make them. The last bit I
bought was from Eagle American 800-872-2511 V-groove, 45-degree, 5/8,
1/4-inch shank. http://www.eagle-american.com .

I run it tight next to the line using my small RotoZip. Then I space
trenching cut across grain every 2 inches. A large chisel splits out the
excess wood in a hurry without much mess. If I'm working in a hard maple I
make the trenching cuts about 1-inch apart so it still splits out easily.

Joe Dillett
The Carving Shop
645 E. LaSalle St. Suite 3
Somonauk, IL. 60552

(815) 498-9290 phone
(815) 498-9249 fax
http://www.thecarvingshop.net [business web site]
http://www.carvingmagazine.com ['Ask Joe' column]
http://community.webshots.com/user/joe_dillett
******************************************************************

----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Heine" <daniel.heine at comcast.net>
To: "[Woodcarver]" <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers



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>

> Mark & All,

>

> I use something similiar to outline my levels. Ray Kinman used to sell

> something he called a "wood carvers router bit". It is a spiral bit that

> that tapers to a poiunt on the bottom. I found one on ebay lasy year, and

> it

> works real well. Ray has been sick for the past few years, and I'm not

> sure

> if he is still with us. If he is gone someone else may be able to produce

> a

> bit like it for wood carvers. I sawe him at a woodworking show years ago

> when I was first stating out in the shop, and he claimed he could guide

> the

> router with one hand with his bit. Does anyone else have information about

> this?

>

> Thanks,

> Dan Heine

>

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: "Mark Whillock" <mark at stubaidirect.com>

> To: "'Byron'" <abkinnaman at earthlink.net>; "'[Woodcarver]'"

> <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>

> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 1:28 PM

> Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers

>

>

>> Support our List with a donation:

> http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html

>> Visit our List Photo Gallery at: http://woodcarver.smugmug.com/

>> Submit photos to our List Photo Gallery:

> http://www.wwwoodcarver.com/Smugmug/SmugmugGallery.html

>>

>> You have received many comments on routers and I would like to add

> something

>> about Bits. My Bit of Choice for removing waste wood from a Carving is a

>> 1/4" Down Spiral Bit. I love this Bit it removes wood quickly and is

>> extremely smooth to use and the downward action maintains the drawing on

> the

>> surface.

>>

>>

>> Mark Whillock

>> Whillock Woodcarving

>> www.stubaidirect.com

>> www.woodcarverswarehouse.com

>> 507-446-0752

>> -----Original Message-----

>> From: woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net

>> [mailto:woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net] On Behalf Of Byron

>> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 12:40 PM

>> To: [Woodcarver]

>> Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers

>>

>> Support our List with a donation:

>> http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html

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>> Submit photos to our List Photo Gallery:

>> http://www.wwwoodcarver.com/Smugmug/SmugmugGallery.html

>>

>>

>> I'm with Donna here. Bigger isn't necessarily better. A smaller router

>> that easier to handle would be my choice for removing waste for relief

>> carving. Speaking of smaller, I have the router attachment for my

> Dremel,

>> it works quite well for many things that don't require dragging out the

>> bigger router.

>>

>> Byron

>> -----Original Message-----

>> >From: Donna Menke <donpbk at yahoo.com>

>> >Sent: Dec 5, 2007 12:38 PM

>> >To: "[Woodcarver]" <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>

>> >Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers

>> >

>> >Support our List with a donation:

>> http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html

>> >Visit our List Photo Gallery at: http://woodcarver.smugmug.com/

>> >Submit photos to our List Photo Gallery:

>> http://www.wwwoodcarver.com/Smugmug/SmugmugGallery.html

>> >

>> >Alex-

>> >You have gotten a lot of advice here about going bigger, so I'll go the

>> other way. If you think you will want to do some regular woodworking with

>> the router, and maybe put it into a router table, then by all means get a

>> big boy. If you are buying it strictly for waste removal on relief

> carvings

>> a couple of times a year, and that is all, then a smaller router would do

>> fine, like the Porter Cable 690 series. They cost about the same, so that

> is

>> not an issue. They will all remove the 1/4" of basswood/butternut at a

> time

>> that you will need. The smaller router will be easier to handle because

>> it

>> weighs less. They all have about the same visibility. Best thing is to

>> run

> a

>> hose off the chip chute to a shop vac to keep the area clean. I'm not an

>> expert on this subject- but that is my 2-cents. Donna Menke

>> >http://www.woodworks-by-donna.com

>> >Author: The Ultimate Band Saw Box Book

>> >

>> >----- Original Message ----

>> >From: Alex Bisso <albisso at bresnan.net>

>> >To: Woodcarver <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>

>> >Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:22:04 PM

>> >Subject: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers

>> >

>> >

>> >Support our List with a donation:

>> > http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html

>> >Visit our List Photo Gallery at: http://woodcarver.smugmug.com/

>> >Submit photos to our List Photo Gallery:

>> > http://www.wwwoodcarver.com/Smugmug/SmugmugGallery.html

>> >

>> >

>> >

>> >

>> >

>> >

>> >

>> >It looks like it is getting to be time for me to bite the

>> >bullet and get a plunge router to help get a good start on thick relief

>> carving

>> >panels. I have been shopping and have some ideas but would like some

> input

>>

>> >from carvers who have experience with them. One of my questions relates

> to

>>

>> >HP or amp rating needed. I am pretty sure that I would need at least a

>> >2.25 HP, 12 amp but perhaps a 3.5 HP unit would be better. I am not

>> >expecting to do a whole lot of carving - maybe 2-3 per year so maybe the

>> 3.5 HP

>> >would be more than needed. What do you think???

>> >

>> >Also, what make/models have you found most to your

>> >liking?

>> >

>> >Visibility while cutting seems important to me - which are the

>> >best in this regard?

>> >

>> >Any input would be appreciated.

>> >

>> >Alex Bisso

>> >

>> >

>> >

>> >PS: Thanks for the leads on finding white birch

>> >stateside. The Hardwood Connection will be sending me some as

> compensation

>>

>> >for cleaning out my bank account!

>> >

>> >

>> >

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