[Woodcarver] tapered router bit
Joe Dillett
jdillett at thecarvingshop.net
Wed Dec 5 17:22:13 EST 2007
Hi Dan,
I have no information about that tapered bit however I believe that it can
be guided with one hand and get up tight to the line without the worry of
chattering. A tapered bit is not prone to chatter like a straight fluted
bits are. That's why it can be guided with one hand.
I use tapered carbide lettering bits, either a 60 or 45-degree taper to a
point at the end. There are many manufactures that make them. The last bit I
bought was from Eagle American 800-872-2511 V-groove, 45-degree, 5/8,
1/4-inch shank. http://www.eagle-american.com .
I run it tight next to the line using my small RotoZip. Then I space
trenching cut across grain every 2 inches. A large chisel splits out the
excess wood in a hurry without much mess. If I'm working in a hard maple I
make the trenching cuts about 1-inch apart so it still splits out easily.
Joe Dillett
The Carving Shop
645 E. LaSalle St. Suite 3
Somonauk, IL. 60552
(815) 498-9290 phone
(815) 498-9249 fax
http://www.thecarvingshop.net [business web site]
http://www.carvingmagazine.com ['Ask Joe' column]
http://community.webshots.com/user/joe_dillett
******************************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Heine" <daniel.heine at comcast.net>
To: "[Woodcarver]" <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers
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>
> Mark & All,
>
> I use something similiar to outline my levels. Ray Kinman used to sell
> something he called a "wood carvers router bit". It is a spiral bit that
> that tapers to a poiunt on the bottom. I found one on ebay lasy year, and
> it
> works real well. Ray has been sick for the past few years, and I'm not
> sure
> if he is still with us. If he is gone someone else may be able to produce
> a
> bit like it for wood carvers. I sawe him at a woodworking show years ago
> when I was first stating out in the shop, and he claimed he could guide
> the
> router with one hand with his bit. Does anyone else have information about
> this?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan Heine
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Whillock" <mark at stubaidirect.com>
> To: "'Byron'" <abkinnaman at earthlink.net>; "'[Woodcarver]'"
> <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 1:28 PM
> Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers
>
>
>> Support our List with a donation:
> http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html
>> Visit our List Photo Gallery at: http://woodcarver.smugmug.com/
>> Submit photos to our List Photo Gallery:
> http://www.wwwoodcarver.com/Smugmug/SmugmugGallery.html
>>
>> You have received many comments on routers and I would like to add
> something
>> about Bits. My Bit of Choice for removing waste wood from a Carving is a
>> 1/4" Down Spiral Bit. I love this Bit it removes wood quickly and is
>> extremely smooth to use and the downward action maintains the drawing on
> the
>> surface.
>>
>>
>> Mark Whillock
>> Whillock Woodcarving
>> www.stubaidirect.com
>> www.woodcarverswarehouse.com
>> 507-446-0752
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net
>> [mailto:woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net] On Behalf Of Byron
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 12:40 PM
>> To: [Woodcarver]
>> Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers
>>
>> Support our List with a donation:
>> http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html
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>> Submit photos to our List Photo Gallery:
>> http://www.wwwoodcarver.com/Smugmug/SmugmugGallery.html
>>
>>
>> I'm with Donna here. Bigger isn't necessarily better. A smaller router
>> that easier to handle would be my choice for removing waste for relief
>> carving. Speaking of smaller, I have the router attachment for my
> Dremel,
>> it works quite well for many things that don't require dragging out the
>> bigger router.
>>
>> Byron
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Donna Menke <donpbk at yahoo.com>
>> >Sent: Dec 5, 2007 12:38 PM
>> >To: "[Woodcarver]" <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
>> >Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers
>> >
>> >Support our List with a donation:
>> http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html
>> >Visit our List Photo Gallery at: http://woodcarver.smugmug.com/
>> >Submit photos to our List Photo Gallery:
>> http://www.wwwoodcarver.com/Smugmug/SmugmugGallery.html
>> >
>> >Alex-
>> >You have gotten a lot of advice here about going bigger, so I'll go the
>> other way. If you think you will want to do some regular woodworking with
>> the router, and maybe put it into a router table, then by all means get a
>> big boy. If you are buying it strictly for waste removal on relief
> carvings
>> a couple of times a year, and that is all, then a smaller router would do
>> fine, like the Porter Cable 690 series. They cost about the same, so that
> is
>> not an issue. They will all remove the 1/4" of basswood/butternut at a
> time
>> that you will need. The smaller router will be easier to handle because
>> it
>> weighs less. They all have about the same visibility. Best thing is to
>> run
> a
>> hose off the chip chute to a shop vac to keep the area clean. I'm not an
>> expert on this subject- but that is my 2-cents. Donna Menke
>> >http://www.woodworks-by-donna.com
>> >Author: The Ultimate Band Saw Box Book
>> >
>> >----- Original Message ----
>> >From: Alex Bisso <albisso at bresnan.net>
>> >To: Woodcarver <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
>> >Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:22:04 PM
>> >Subject: [Woodcarver] Question about plunge routers
>> >
>> >
>> >Support our List with a donation:
>> > http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html
>> >Visit our List Photo Gallery at: http://woodcarver.smugmug.com/
>> >Submit photos to our List Photo Gallery:
>> > http://www.wwwoodcarver.com/Smugmug/SmugmugGallery.html
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >It looks like it is getting to be time for me to bite the
>> >bullet and get a plunge router to help get a good start on thick relief
>> carving
>> >panels. I have been shopping and have some ideas but would like some
> input
>>
>> >from carvers who have experience with them. One of my questions relates
> to
>>
>> >HP or amp rating needed. I am pretty sure that I would need at least a
>> >2.25 HP, 12 amp but perhaps a 3.5 HP unit would be better. I am not
>> >expecting to do a whole lot of carving - maybe 2-3 per year so maybe the
>> 3.5 HP
>> >would be more than needed. What do you think???
>> >
>> >Also, what make/models have you found most to your
>> >liking?
>> >
>> >Visibility while cutting seems important to me - which are the
>> >best in this regard?
>> >
>> >Any input would be appreciated.
>> >
>> >Alex Bisso
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >PS: Thanks for the leads on finding white birch
>> >stateside. The Hardwood Connection will be sending me some as
> compensation
>>
>> >for cleaning out my bank account!
>> >
>> >
>> >
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>> >Woodcarver at six.pairlist.net
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>>
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