[Woodcarver] relief carving frame
Ivan Whillock
carve at whillock.com
Thu Nov 8 13:21:28 EST 2007
You are correct in being concerned about the expansion of the contrasting woods, and also about attaching long grain to cross grain.
I'd also be concerned about rigidly attaching plywood to the back of a plaque, because those two may expand and contract at different rates as well.
Create a frame that has plenty of overlap and let the carving "float" in the frame. You can do that by, for example, using finishing nails in the back of the frame which keep the carving in place but do not rigidly attach the frame to the carving (as a photo is kept in a frame). You'll also want the frame to be free to expand and contract so that the corners don't open when the frame sections shrink in dry conditions.
----- Original Message -----
From: mrchipps1 at comcast.net
To: woodcarver at six.pairlist.net
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 11:11 AM
Subject: [Woodcarver] relief carving frame
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Friends,
I completed a relief carving from buternut approx 20" x 14" x 3" deep. I chose 1" x 4" poplar for a frame. If I screw the poplar to the carving, the different woods will expand and contract differently over the different temperatures.
To get around this, I plan to make the poplar frame just a little bit larger than the carving and then secure a plywood back to the frame, so what I have will resemble a box. Then the plywood back will screw into the carving.
Am I on the right track or am I all wet and there is a better way?
Thanks,
--
Dave
for you, O Lord, has not forsaken those who seek you.
Psalms 9:10
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