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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hey gang,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Need some advice --- I have carved an eagle (full
size) out of a dead spruce tree which will be kept outside. It will be painted
when complete. What should I use, if anything, as a sealer under the
paint?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have some ideas, like diluted varnish, or boiled
linseed oil. Any other ideas out there? Also, should I "bondo" the existing
cracks? Thanks for any ideas you may reply.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Cheers,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Merryl Bustin</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Nova Scotia</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>************************************************</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Hi Merryl</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>You have the right idea about painting spruce, because spruce
is not a good outdoor wood and the paint will fully block UV and moisture,
making the spruce last longer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I would never use boiled linseed oil as a base sealer coat
under any paint because oil is unstable. By unstable I mean it
moves/reflows when warmed in the sun even after it is dry. If you paint over an
unstable base your paint will be unstable. I would not seal with varnish either
because you will lose some of the mechanical hold between the paint and the
varnish, causing potential pealing problems. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Bugs like spruce, so try to raise it off the ground. Use a
good outdoor paint. Latex wears by chalking, oil base paints wear by pealing.
For this reason I would choose the latex. Follow manufactures directions. Make
sure the surface is dry. Use a good primer, recommended for the top coat. I
would tint the primer close to the same color as the topcoat. Apply about
3 heavy coats of paint.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I wouldn't fill the cracks, especially not with bondo (or
anything harder then the wood). Those cracks need to expand and contract with
the seasons and conditions. If you don't allow the cracks to close this will
cause more stress and more cracking. If the cracks must be filled, an exterior
grade silicon (paintable) calk might be your best bet. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>Joe Dillett<BR>The Carving Shop<BR>645 E. LaSalle St. Suite
3<BR>Somonauk, IL. 60552</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>(815) 498-9290 phone<BR>(815) 498-9249 fax<BR><A
href="http://www.thecarvingshop.net">http://www.thecarvingshop.net</A> [business
web site]<BR><A
href="http://www.carvingmagazine.com">http://www.carvingmagazine.com</A> ['Ask
Joe' column]<BR><A
href="http://community.webshots.com/user/joe_dillett">http://community.webshots.com/user/joe_dillett</A><BR>******************************************************************</DIV>
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