[MCR] Rockies, Unnamed Peak, E Ridge

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Up and down the East Ridge of Unnamed yesterday.  Temps at Lake  
Louise at 0415 were 7C, and ~12C on top (3150m) at 11 under a broken  
sky.

We quick stepped over some meltwater on the initial 3rd class step  
that gains the toe of the glacier, skirted just below the ice to gain  
the ridge and then crossed 10m of snow just below the summit.  
Otherwise the route was totally dry. Recent parties have descended  
via the pocket glacier and looked to have had decent step kicking in  
snow for the upper half. However, the lower half looked to be mostly  
ice and open slots now. The snow was melting fast yesterday with a  
regular bombardment of the right (i.e. North) edge of the glacier  
from the rotten bluffs above. We kept the rope dry to the very end  
thanks to the big slung boulder on skier's left of the glacier toe,  
which got us down the final 15m step to the scree via an overhanging  
rappel onto the last lingering snow pocket.

Across the valley, the snow on Victoria and Lefroy looked to have  
melted back significantly in the last week, and the S ridge on Vic  
has quite a bit more rock and ice showing through now.

Mozzies were bountiful in the pm, starting at 2500m (top of the  
scree) until a fair way below the tea house.

Carl Johnston
RG