[MCR] Rockies: Forbes/Lyells

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Fri Aug 6 22:22:47 EDT 2010


Another West Side Story. On Aug 5 we did the 3.4 hr approach method
to Forbes and on the 6th climbed the E Ridge/N Face with a descent
down the W Ridge. Still good snow coverage on the mountain although
the firn line is in the 2700 m range on the Mons Icefield and North
Glacier.

Aug 7 we walked Division Ridge to the Lyell Hut and today (Aug 8) we
climbed Lyell 1 and 2. By 7 AM a cold front had hit and whiteout
conditions on the high summits caused a retreat back to the hut. More
snow coverage on the Lyell Icefield than on the Mons.

Overall conditions are still good in this zone although the snowpack
is starting to thin out and crevasses are starting to become slightly
problematic. No recent avalanche or rockfall activity was noted.
There were a few small icefalls but it didn't seem to be as noisy as
last week in the Alexandra area.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com

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