[MCR] Rockies, Mt Temple, East Ridge

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Guided the East Ridge of Mt Temple yesterday, Aug 16th. The route is  
in very good shape overall with all of last Thurs/Fri storm snow  
melted off.

After half a dozen ascents of the route, in both winter and summer, I  
finally nailed the best exit gully. Ok, two of those ascents were  
made via  climbing over the black towers -a much more involved, but  
interesting option, and the line of the first ascent- and in winter  
it does make sense to follow one of furthest left gullies as  
indicated on page 131 of Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian  
Rockies. Otherwise, for this time of year, I would highly recommend  
following the exit as described on pages 180/181 of the first edition  
(the one that I have) of The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies. Pay  
close attention to "The start of the correct exit gully is marked by  
a small pinnacle ..." This pinnacle is about 10 meters high and you  
climb up behind it in a shoulder width chimney. We slung the top of  
it as an anchor and stepped up from it to the right, then crossed  
back left overhead for a longish -45 m?- pitch to a two piton anchor.  
In the past I have made a horizontal traverse to the left to gain the  
Selected Alpine gullys, yesterday I stepped right from this anchor  
and headed pretty much straight up with a bit of a left leaning. I  
found much easier climbing with a number of in situ pitons and three  
new bolts beefing up the last three anchors to the ridgeline and walk  
over to the glacier. In addition there is no cornice sitting over  
this gully/basin whereas there is ugly ones over the Selected Alpine  
exit gullies.

The ice arete to the top is icey in places but mostly good step  
kicking. Southwest side descent had dried out from last week's storm.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
http://www.barryblanchard.ca
http://www.yamnuska.com
barryb3 at telus.net
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321







In the 'nice' exit gully
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