[MCR] Lake O Hara area

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Fri Aug 20 11:23:35 EDT 2010


I spent the Aug 16-19 based out of the Elizabeth Parker hut in the
Lake O Hara area with the ACC Ottawa section. We had great weather
and a fun crew.

August 16th we climbed he South Ridge of Victoria from the hut via
Abbots Pass and descended the Huber Glacier. We saw the same
conditions Mark Klassen spoke of in his report.

August 17th and 18th we had hot sunny days and climbed Grassi Ridge
and Little Odaray.

On August 19th we ascended the Huber ledges to Mt Huber and Mt
Victoria, temps were much cooler with overcast skies and the cooler NW
winds.

Conditions had deteriorated with warm temps over the previous 2 days.
More ice was exposed on the East face of Mt. Huber, and the lower
glacier has some awakening holes. The bridge over the second shrund is
melting out, below the exposed rock that separates the upper and
lower Huber glacier.

The ascent / descent gully of Victoria had nearly dried out with lots
of exposed rocks. This descent could become a rockfall zone, with
stacked parties and/or warm temperatures.
Some of the snow sections on the East side of the ridge are melting
back to ice, and need caution.

Andrew Langsford
Mountain Guide
www.alpinemountainexperience.ca





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