[MCR] Polar Circus, Bolted Anchor failure

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

    A Friend and I climbed Polar Circus on Dec 3rd. Overall the climb  
is not bad for this time of year, however a few of the pitches are  
total soakers and I would definitely recommend gore-tex.  Several of  
the upper pitches are quite chandeliered and do not have the best  
protection, with the crux being the "Ribbon pitch" with steep ice and  
difficult protection for about 10m, but good fairly easy steps.

             Of more significant note was the condition of many of the  
fixed bolted anchors on route. Its been quite a few years since I have  
climbed this route, but I was fairly appalled at the condition of many  
of the bolted anchors. Most of these anchors are composed of  a length  
of chain sandwiched to the rock via a few washers and a 3/8 bolt, many  
are rusted and bent.

	My suspicion of these anchors was later confirmed when my friend  
leaned back to rappel and one of the 3/8 inch BOLTS SHEARED RIGHT  
OFF!!!!! The bolt looked a bit dubious, slightly bent, slightly  
rusted, but I had rationalized it as "come on, when does a 3/8 bolt  
fail?" Well they do!!

             After this experience and further checking out many more  
of the bolted anchors on the way down, I would continue to be suspect  
of several of the anchors as many of the bolts are bent and showing  
signs of wear. Remember it is almost impossible to assess the true  
strength of a bolt just by the way it looks from the outside. I would  
only 100% trust the newest anchors that obviously have  new stainless   
(shiny) steel bolts and chains, V threads are always a good option if  
the anchor looks dubious. Also many of these fixed anchors are very  
hard to reach right now and sometimes getting to the anchor feels like  
the real crux of the route.


Have fun and play safe out there. Craig McGee

Craig McGee
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

craigskibum at yahoo.com


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