[MCR] Ice Climb on Mt. Oderay, Lake O'Hara Area, Cdn Rockies

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sat Feb 13 22:22:17 EST 2010



> Gurrrl's Day Off  110m IV WI5

>

> Sarah Hueniken and I had a great adventure on Feb.11 in the

> Lake O'Hara area. We skiied into the Morning Glory Lakes

> area of Mt. Oderay to climb some ice I had spied while

> working in the area.

> Due to the low avalanche hazard, lack of wind and sun, we

> felt encouraged to try an ascent despite the avalanche

> hazard on the approach and above the climb.

>

> We found the climbing to be very techincal with lots of

> cleaning and variable ice/snice. We climbed and rappelled

> the route in 2 pitches. We left v-threads.

>

> There is an overhead serac shown in the photo, but no

> evidence of debris at this time.

> There are the three surface hoar layers in this area in the

> top 40 cm of the snowpack, when this slabs up it could be

> very touchy for avalanches.


Jen Olson
ACMG/UIAGM guide

Our line goes up the middle of the biggest blue area : )
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