[MCR] Bugboo Conditions

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Mon Jul 19 16:00:51 EDT 2010


Just back from 4 days in the Bugaboos and Kain hut area. Overall snowpack
seems average for mid July. Patchy snows in the moraines just above the hut
and more or less continuous snow cover just a bit higher than the Applebee
elevation. The Applebee camp site is mostly free of snow and as of July 18
the food bins and hanging racks were not completely installed. Numerous
cornice releases were noted on north aspects above 2500m and they did not
trigger any deeper releases on the slopes below. Pretty much all of the
"usual" routes are getting climbed despite a bit of snow here and there but
not really hampering progress. Glacier travel was quite good with well
bridged crevasses and about 5cm of boot penetration. Crampons would be
useful on the mornings of a freeze however we did not use them over 4 days
of travel Bugaboo/Snowpatch col is in good shape and several crevasses are
just beginning to be visible although at this stage are well bridged. West
Ridge of Pigeon is mostly dry with some snow near the final summit; for our
group we did not require crampons. The South and Central Howsers still have
large cornices; nothing exceptional for this time of year but something to
consider on the descents of the Becky Chouinard etc.



Happy Climbing

James Blench ACMG/UIAGM





James Blench

www.jamesblench.ca

(403)678-2576 home

(403) 678-7822 cell



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