[MCR] Columbia Icefields & Castle Mountain

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hey all,

Two days at the ice fields last weekend, both on Athabasca.

First day we spent playing around down low on the on the north glacier below
the Boundary Col. Still quite a bit of snow coverage in there, the deepest
of which we found was just over 1m. We played around on the exposed ice ribs
on the bottom climbers left at the toe of the glacier as refresher day, as
well as found a good sight for crevasse rescue and some steep ice climbing
practice just above the toe where it transitions into flatter terrain above
a few hundred meters above on the climbers left. The snow stayed reasonably
supportive even in the afternoon heat. 30cm – boot penetration at the most
for us.

Second day up the Silverhorn.  +2*C in the parking lot at 0400am. A descent
freeze and a track in place made for easy travel up to the base of the
route. Wasn’t quite good enough to completely support a person’s weight on
the surface until we we’re above 2900m’s. Below that boot pen was no more
than about 20cm’s. The route itself was snow top to bottom ranging in depth
from about 10-60cm’s. Managed to get ice anchors the whole way with the
exception of one T-Slot a little more than half way up. Good supportive
step-kicking for 90% or the route and not too much front pointing required.
We came down the AA Col, good travel down and out to the toe of the ice
(thanks for the track Sharon/Barry)

Last day did the Goat Plateau Traverse on Castle Mountain, west to east. The
approach to the hut was snow free until we hit the plateau. Lots of runoff
flowing  up there right now, and plenty of patches of snow still laying
around near the hut. Wouldn’t be any issues with getting water. Few patches
of steep-ish snow on the way across the plateau, but soft enough that you
could kick in really supportive steps. Bass Buttress, Brewers Buttress, and
Eisenhower all looked dry and good to go.

That’s it for now, hope everyone’s out there getting after it!

*Mike Trehearne*

*ACMG - Assistant Alpine Guide*

*m_trehearne at hotmail.com*

*+1.403.679.808*
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