[MCR] Mt. Columbia

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed the East face on Tuesday May 11, under perfect conditions.

A strong freeze (-15 at 4 am) led to fast travel and great step  
kicking on the face.  Both of the bergschrunds were closed and easy to  
pass.  There was one spot on the face about 200 feet below the summit  
where it was almost bare ice but it only lasted for  about 20 feet.   
The rest of the face had boot top depth steps.

The crust was breaking down by 11am so early starts (and finishes)  
were a must.

The upper icefield had anywhere from 250 to 300+cms of snow so most  
crevasses were covered quite well and travel was quick up the  
Athabasca glacier.

The sun was the biggest hazard for us as the clear skies gave no  
respite from the heat.

There were a few other parties camped around the Twins and people had  
been skiing up the Saskatchewan glacier as well.

Have a great and safe weekend!

Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide/Assistant Ski Guide