[MCR] Rockies: Icefields

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed A2 today via the right tongue of the Boundary Glacier. There  
is about 35 cm of snow from the snowfalls of the last few weeks and  
this overlies glacier ice up to about 2700m. Above that this new snow  
overlies the old neve. There is no strength to the surface snow so  
probing was required for virtually every step to ensure we didn't  
fall into a crevasse.

Other parties in the area climbed the left ice tongue of the Boundary  
Glacier yesterday and the AA Col route on Athabasca today. They  
reported similar conditions.

All these areas were sheltered from the strong winds that have been  
raking the high peaks the past few days. We were all avoiding areas  
where there would be wind loading, such as any of the routes on the  
north side of Athabasca. There is a history of avalanche accidents in  
the Rockies during the first fall snowstorms so if you are getting  
out there keep your head up.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com


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