[MCR] Rockies, Mt Cromwell

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Tue Apr 19 11:36:00 EDT 2011


I guided an attempt on the North Face of Mt Cromwell yesterday, April
18th. Decent travel on snowshoes (skis would be better) over the
frozen Sunwapta River and into Woolley Creek. Felt like -20 C in the
creek bed. Every so often my snowshoes would break through the
temperature/sun crust and fall into a well of facetted snow, a
reminder that I was still in the Rockies.

There is a recent size 2 slab out on the upper slopes between
Cromwell and Mt Engelhard (see photo below). It looked to be
triggered by a cornice, same elevation and aspect as the Elzinga/
Miller Route. A large threatening cornice is sitting on top of the
Elzinga/Miller right now. We decided that the Robinson/Arbic route
would be a less exposed and safer route right now and headed that way.

A snow feature broke off of the wall as I was doing the first in the
gully that starts the route. A couple of cinder block sized chunks
bounced out over me and a soft ball sized piece whacked me in the
helmet, thankfully with no more force than a "from-the-elbow" smack
when one is conducting a shove compression test. This was followed by
two minutes of weighty spindrift. It was enough communication for us,
I scampered back to the anchor and we ran away.

It will be an interesting spring in the alpine given the cornices and
snow features that are hanging onto many of the walls.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com


Size 2 slab visible on the right


The cornice on top of the Elzinga/Miller
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