[MCR] Mt. Andromeda, Skyladder, August 8th

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Mon Aug 8 22:55:03 EDT 2011


We found good conditions today on the Skyladder route on Andromeda. A good
freeze overnight and an early start made for a 10-20 cm crust that was
supportive throughout the climb. Beneath this crust lies a saturated,
isothermal snowpack, which quickly becomes unstable when the crust melts
out. The route is all snow right now and made for quick travel with the
cold conditions we had in the morning. Bergschrunds on both the ascent and
descent are still fairly filled in and easily crossed. We still had a
supportive crust on N aspects on our descent at around 1230; however, snow
on steep S, SE, and E aspects was completely isothermal. We witnessed a
size 2.5 cornice triggered avalanche on a steep E aspect at around 3000m at
1000 am. Large cornices still hang over almost every other route on the N
aspects of Andromeda. Cheers

Ian Jackson
ACMG Assistant Rock and Assistant Ski Guide
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