[MCR] Bugaboos conditions August 14 -19th & Pigeon Spire Travel Warning

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Greetings, 

I was in the Bugaboos with 4 course participants and fellow guide Ben Firth from August 14-19th. 

We
 found excellent lower elevation and challenging higher elevation 
conditions in the Bugaboos this week. With the large previous
winters snowpack, a very wet spring/early summer, unseasonably cooler 
temperatures and recent new higher elevation snow/graupel/freezing rain.  This
 often meant wet rock/cracks at lower elevations and much snow, ice, 
verglass and iced up cracks on the higher elevation (above 2700 Meters) 
alpine rock objectives. This has caused many parties to take longer than
 anticipated, not be able to complete routes or even be forced to 
bivouac en route. 

For example one party on NE ridge of Bugaboo 
reported verglass, snow and iced up cracks greatly slowing  and 
frustrating progress forcing a headlamp descent in driving freezing 
rain. Another party on the same route were benighted and spent an 
unpleasant forced bivouac during a raging storm on a South summit ledge 
to discover a cornice overhead in the morning which had built overnight.
 

Our team found that the shortcut ledges of normal routes  such 
as on Marmolata and Pigeon spires were not practicable, now being snow 
covered and steep, often with verglass leading to them. We were forced instead
to undertake much more direct ridge lines requiring climbing ridge steps
 usually circumnavigated that were quite a bit more difficult,  snowed 
up and icy than usual, requiring extra time and care to complete. 

TRAVEL WARNING!
 Besides several large crevasses, there exists a grave hazard on the 
oft-used Pigeon Fork Bugaboo Glacier approach/descent of Pigeon Spire. 
The hazard is in the form of a giant hidden lid as part of the 
scoop/trowel feature that exists at the base of the cliffs between the 
Pigeon Spire and the snow arete which leads to the West 
ridge route start. Some parties have traveled atop of this feature 
without knowing the hazard and there is a track right over it. The lid 
covers a large and deep crevasse chamber below. Parties are recommended 
to use the glacier closest to Pigeon Feathers - Maramolata instead which
 offers a well bridged and speedy approach/descent. See PDF picture attached.

Early in the week we noticed a major rockfall event from the North slopes of Anniversary peak. We also saw a large rock melt out and roll off of steep exposed ice (dry) glaciated terrain. 

There
 were several good early morning freezes during the week requiring us to
 use crampons on any angled snow terrain which by 11 a.m or so softened 
to excellent boot travel. All the cols observed (Bugaboo - Snowpatch, 
Snowpatch - Pigeon, Marmolata - Pigeon Feathers remain in excellent 
condition. Lower elevation South, West faces and ridges of spires such 
as Brenta, Crescent and Eastpost are in excellent condition. Overall 
excellent crevasse bridges in glaciated terrain. We did notice some 
sagging bridges in the larger crevasses and bergschrunds of the upper 
glaciers. Ankle biter narrower crevasses above firn line are just 
beginning to appear. The lower Son of Snowpatch - Bugaboo glacier is 
still a wet glacier with snow on it but bare ice is quickly showing 
every day (large embedded rocks there). 

As we left more seasonal temperatures were pervading 
and will likely greatly improve higher elevation rock route conditions. 
Expect higher rockfall, weakening crevasse bridges and cornice failure 
potential with this new trend. The trail has been improved yet again 
shaving off 15 - 20 minutes. 

Despite the more challenging 
conditions we encountered, we were able to summit several spires, meet 
all of our objectives and have an excellent week. 

Eric Dumerac - Professional Mountain Guide - IFMGA/ACMG, CAA II ,CSIA II

Mountain Skills Academy
www.msacourses.com
✆Canada: Canmore 011- 403-609-1564  
 		 	   		  
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