[MCR] Bugaboos and Lake Louise area, August 20-29

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

The following are some observations compiled from the ACMG assistant alpine
guide exam:

Overall, early season conditions prevailed in all areas with snow amounts
being more similar to normal levels for early July.

*Weather:*
Couldn't ask for better weather this week. A high pressure system dominated
giving clear skies with light winds.  Daytime highs were in the low
twenties with lows in the single digits, and better freezes near the end of
the week.

*Bugaboos, August 20-23:*
Routes climbed were the Kain route on Bugaboo, the East Ridge of Marmolada,
and the South Ridge of Brenta Spire.

*Conditions:*
Dry rock and excellent snow travel conditions.  Winter snow still covers
scree/ boulders on many approaches making for easier travel.  Supportive
summer snowpack with good step kicking potential.

*Hazards:*

   - The bergschrund on the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col was half filled in on the
   climbers right side, but starting to open up on the climbers left side,
   where the main uptrack and the rappel routes are.
   - Minimal rockfall was observed.
   - Good coverage on the glaciers, but crevasses are starting to show up.


*Lake Louise, August 24-28:*
Routes climbed were: East Ridge of Unnamed, N. and S. Victoria, Aberdeen,
West Ridge of Fay, Mt. Little, Castle Mountain - Brewers and Eisenhower
Tower, and the Kain route on Mt. Louis.

*Conditions:*
Rock routes were dry and in good shape.  Mixed routes were in early season
shape with plenty of loose rock from the winter still teetering on many
ledges. Of particular note, the descent off Aberdeen to Paradise valley was
in good shape with multiple snow patches allowing for easier travel than
normal.  Generally, excellent snow travel in the mornings, deteriorating
with daytime warming in the afternoons.

*Hazards:*

   - The snow cover is thinning on glaciers and ice faces, resulting in
   weakening crevasse bridges, especially in the afternoons.
   - Rockfall is a big concern with warming temperatures in the afternoon
   melting out rocks embedded in the ice/snow (particularly on the Aberdeen ice
   tongue, and Unnamed glacier descent)
   - Many large cornices are still present, and hanging precariously over
   popular routes (N. Victoria, and Mt. Fay NF routes).

Overall, a great week in the mountains!  Conditions will change quickly with
the forecasted precipitation tonight.

Cheers

Ian Jackson

ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide Candidate
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