[MCR] Mount Temple (Black Towers) Beta

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

(See attached file: Black Towers- East Ridge of Temple.jpg)
This summer there have been several parties that have gotten lost while
climbing through the Black Towers feature on the East Ridge of Mt. Temple.
When traversing left under the Black Towers on the prominent snow slope
everything is foreshortened and it can be difficult to locate the correct
gully to ascend to the summit ridge. If you go up a gully too soon you will
top out on steep difficult ridge terrain. If you go up a gully further
along you will end up underneath massive cornices. If you go up the correct
gully you will top out on a low angle talus slope about 100 metres from the
summit glacier.


Here is some beta that helps to identify the correct exit gully. When
traversing left on the large snow slope (after topping out on the Big Step)
you will encounter an obvious rock pinnacle that originates from the snow
slope and is about 10 metres high. (If you are traversing the snow slope
near the top, close to the moat, you would bump into this pinnacle.) The
exit gully is just on the other side of the pinnacle, but  most climbers
scramble up between the pinnacle and the main wall (you can create a belay
by slinging the top of the pinnacle). From here climb loose rock up and
left so as to merge into the exit gully higher up. It is about 5 pitches of
loose 5.4ish rock and/or snow and ice climbing to reach the summit ridge.


Keep in mind that if there is snow in the gully then increased rock fall
and avalanche hazard may be present.


Hope that this is useful information.


Brian Webster
Mountain Guide
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