[MCR] David Thompson Country Ice Climbs January 29, 30, 2011

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Spent Saturday and Sunday Ice Climbing in David Thompson Country with a
Leadership Course from the ACC Edmonton Section.

Jan 29 - Cline River Gallery - recent warm spell has left the river pretty
wide open. The trail is in a slightly non-standard location in parts but it
is well beaten now and gets you right to the spot. The last little gully
down to the river is icy underneath a skiff of snow and we left our crampons
on until out of the gully on the way home. Beware on descent.

Ice was very, very brittle likely due to cool temperatures and a brutal wind
that blew down on the climbs all day long. Single tool placements resulted
in large cracks propagating 2 to 3 meters either side of you. The ice that
wasn't brittle was running water (oh, Joy!) Pure Energy is in. The mixed
line to the left has had all of the daggers knocked off. Afraid of the Dark
has not really started to form. The ice farther up the canyon is
inaccessible due to open water. Not much hazard from hanging icicles right
now but that can quickly change here. I would not have wanted to be hanging
out below any hanging daggers given the nature of the ice on Saturday.

I didn't get a good look at Nightmare on Elm Street so can't say if it is
in.

January 30 - Two O'clock Falls - Minus 25 at Nordegg and minus 22 at the
base of the route. Fortunately no wind. Best trail in currently starts from
the pay phone parking lot and follows a trail started by a herd of elk just
inside the Cavalcade campground fence line. Beaten path does not follow the
normal trail but gets you to the base fairly directly nonetheless.

Plenty of ice already formed and lots of options from WI2 to WI3 (some wet).
Ice was somewhat brittle once again with a few wet lines on right of center.
We climbed two lines, one on the left and another just right of center. Be
careful topping out on the various pitches (especially the first) as the
running water has formed shells of hollow ice on snow at the tops of many
pitches. There are also lots of pools of water waiting just when topping out
on some pitches.

We rapped off of trees and Abalakov V-threads with double ropes instead of
the shorter rap and walk-off. Found two rappel sling anchors on trees that
were frightening. They were tied off with side figure eight knots with VERY
short tails (1 - 2cm / less than 1 inch). The knots were also very loose
even after the rappels as I easily untied them without any effort
whatsoever.

I sure wish people would stop using this technique (side figure eight knot)
for joining cordage on anchors or V-threads. It is no longer the best
practice and has been responsible for several accidents. I would advise
using a better, more secure bend, leaving adequate tails. Finish by dressing
the knot tightly and properly.

Got a quick look at Nothing But the Breast on the way by. Upper pillar is in
but lower two pitches look absent.

The following climbs are NOT in:
- In Search of Flying Squirrels
- Good Luck and Bad Dreams (no 1st pitch / upper portion super anemic)
- Dry Ice (NO ice)

Highway 11 from Cline River to almost Rocky Mountain House was in crappy
driving condition so I didn't get a chance to make any other observations
from the road.

Cheers

Cyril Shokoples MG
Rescue Dynamics
And the ACC Edmonton Crew