[MCR] Upper Weeping Wall

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed the left side of the Upper Wall yesterday.  The route is in good shape with two distinct cruxes, one on the second pitch (physical 5+) and one on the last half of the last pitch (harder/more technical but shorter).  Overall there is only about 10 meters of climbing at the guidebook grade.

There are some large daggers on the left side of the route that need to be respected.  We were able to use sheltered belays and limited our time around this feature.  

The climbing was mostly quite good with the normal sections of funky, technical and hard to protect ice.  We were able to walk up to the Upper Wall on old avalanche debris.

Timing is everything on this route and it might be wise to stay away from it if  gets cold in the next little while - the daggers will pose a problem once the ice becomes brittle.  

The Right Hand line on the Lower Wall was also in good shape, albeit quite wet.  Currently this route is on the easier side of the grade.

Have fun!

Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide
Canadian Alpine Guides