[MCR] Rockies. Haddo Peak

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided a traverse of Haddo Peak, up the East Ridge and down the  
Aberdeen Glacier, today, July 10. Amazingly the ice climb, "The  
Tease" is still clinging to the side of Sheol Mountain! There are a  
couple of snow patches to walk through just before Saddle Pass.  
Several snow gullies to traverse on the trail into Surprise Valley.  
We saw bear tracks there from yesterday, looked like a sow and two  
cubs. A light overnight freeze granted good step kicking towards the  
Sheol/Haddo col, we moved together the whole way save for one 5 meter  
icey patch. There are still some large cornices clinging to the East  
Ridge of Haddo Peak. We turned the summit pillar via the normal exit  
gully 15 meters to the south. The gully was a low end mixed climb  
today (M1?) that even offered some good screw placements.

Descent via the Aberdeen Glacier: the bergshrund is opening up but  
still easily passable. Good coverage on the glacier and the steep  
part of the ice tongue is snow free. We rappelled it off of  
Abalakovs. A lot of snow bordering the ice tongue, that made for  
quick plunge stepping into the lower valley. A great trip today.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com




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