[MCR] Rockies-Abbot Pass July 13th-14th, 2011

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Up to Abbot Pass from O'Hara on wednesday the 13th. Good snow travel for probably 80% of the way up the big gully. Thankfully we had a decent freeze and the day got overcast after a hot, sunny start to the morning. Lots of fairly big wet avalanches coming off Ringrose, Glacier and Lefroy in the sun and then later in the rain. 

Hut is in good shape except part of the woodpile will eventually melt out and roll down the glacier. We moved most of it but it could use some more help soon. It would be embarrassing to be struck by a round of firewood while walking down the Death trap.

Descended the Death Trap this morning. Nasty overnight crust made for tough walking but froze up the wet snow and rockfall for our passage. Seracs are still looming on the Upper Victoria Glacier. That is the one place where I am cheering for glacial recession.

Easy to get around the(for now) mostly covered crevasses. Lefroy looks good, been lots of wet slides down it. The first step on Victoria above the hut looks like early june. Lots of snow all over that slope/face and it would be a terrible place to descend in the heat of the day.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
laristan at telus.net