[MCR] Chamonix conditions

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hi All,

 I just finished a 5 day Mont Blanc program. Despite the 
really dry winter here, the higher elevation conditions in the massif 
this Spring have generally been good.  In the last month, the weather 
seem to have shifted to a more unsettled Spring like pattern bringing 
snow at higher elevation periodically. Up to a meter of snow was 
reported a few weeks ago at higher elevation. As I am writing, it is 
raining hard in town and they are forecasting upwards of 40cm with 
strong winds above 3500m. The avalanche conditions in the alpine will be
 touchy for the next few days. In the short term, all this new snow will
 
enhance-maintain the alpine conditions and normalize 
for the lack of snow this past winter. However, it could also be a short
 term band-aid. Below 2800m, things are pretty grim. The super dry 
winter has taken a toll and the glaciers are mostly free of snow and 
melting quickly. It looks more like mid-August than mid-June down there.
 

Many classic alpine mixed routes are still in good shape. The 
regular route on Mont Blanc du Tacul is not straightforward and has many
 open crevasses forcing some detours. It is also more threaten by seracs
 this year. The normal route on Mont Blanc (Arete Des Bosses) is in 
great shape and as usual well traveled. Before this last storm people 
were climbing some of the classic higher elevation south facing routes 
on dry rock. The lower elevation alpine rock routes in the "Aiguilles 
rouges" are generally snow free. 

Wishing you all a great start to the summer season!

David Lussier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com
 		 	   		  
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