[MCR] Rockies, Lyells June 22- 24

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just finished a trip to the Lyells. We managed to climb Lyell 4 and 5 (Walter and Christian) before getting turned back by approaching an approaching lightning storm. We brought skis for the trip and had excellent travel and skiing conditions. Wednesday there was a very good freeze below 2100m  which supported on foot until noon on a SW facing glacier at 3000m.  We skied the summit of Lyell 5 on Wednesday and had excellent corn skiing on the way down. It got quite warm Wednesday afternoon at the Hut . There were several slab avalanches that released in the afternoon, size 1.5- 2 west aspect 30cm deep, 3000m.
Yesterday (Thursday) the freeze wasn't quite as good. Starting at the Lyell Hut (2850m) the snow supported with skis on but just barely when walking. We skied around to the 3-4 saddle and climbed the north ridge of Lyell 4. We had mostly excellent conditions with firm snow and the cornices weren't too wild.  The were a couple of short sections of unconsolidated snow which made for some waist deep wallowing, there is now a nice trench. We down climbed/ rappelled the north ridge but decided to forego Lyell 1-3 due to the approaching storm. Yesterday afternoon and night saw thundershowers and heavy rain with the snow line down to 2400m.
Still lots of snow and it was possible to ski down to 2100m on a SW aspect. At 1900m on north aspects there is still 60cm of snow. I didn't probe on the glaciers but good coverage and not many crevasses showing yet.
Larry Dolecki
Mountain Guide
www.icefall.ca