[MCR] Rockies, Wasootch Tower

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided a winter style, small "a" alpine, ascent of Wasootch Tower today, April 7th. We gained the high col on the south ridge of the tower via the creek bed that drains it to the northwest (a common summer trail contours above this drainage to gain the col). There as a wee bit of post-holing getting into creek bed but the snow soon became supportive. 10-15 centimetres of dry snow on a supportive layer, the approach would have been a good ski run today!

The first gully leading in from climber's right had avalanched to about size 1 and a half. We took avalanche safety gear (beacon, probe and shovel) and it is a good place to have it as avalanches are possible there now given well over a meter of snow in the gullies.

The traditional ascent from the col up a chimney/groove system to a bolted belay, and then traverse to climber's right to gain the summit via another bolted belay, provided fine and engaging mixed climbing -snow and verglas over rock. We had a great time climbing in crampons, dry tooling and hand hold climbing. A good rack for today was 2 knifeblade pitons (I made 3 kb placements en route), a half set of nuts, and cams from fingertip to fist. Ice screws aren't necessary.

A fine day out,
happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com