[MCR] Rockies, Lake Louise: Louise Falls

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sat Apr 7 20:38:31 EDT 2012


Despite still being in excellent condition, we had the Falls all to ourselves today.

Last week's upslope wind event moved a lot of snow around there. All the uptracks were completely blown in this morning and there was lots of debris from several recent sloughs at the base and on the first ledge. Some large hangfire blocks (old tree bombs?) are still perched in the gully just above the top of the climb, too.

The sun comes onto the climb around 9 now, so things warmed up fast today, but with -16C at 0730 this morning, the ice was a bit explosive, and the initial pitch(es) up to the cave are covered in several inches of fresh spindrift snice. This required some delicate climbing and/or substantial cleaning to get to good ice for tools/screws. The upper pitch is starting to see some solar effect; however, unlike the lower angled ice below, the crux curtain is still in generally easy well-travelled shape on the left line, or a bit sun affected but still fine on the steeper right line.

The climb should hang in for at least another week or two, if anyone is still interested in climbing it in the best conditions of the season!

Carl Johnston, RG/AAG
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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