[MCR] Uto Peak, Sir Donald

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hiked into the lower bivy Monday afternoon and climbed the South ridge of Uto Peak after dinner.  The route is completely dry and in great shape.

Tried to climb Sir Donald yesterday morning but got forced to retreat about 150 meters from the summit due to a passing hail storm that left the mountain soaked and incredibly slippery.  The route is in great shape with the bypass still snow covered but the ridge is 100% dry col to summit.  

There are still a few large snow patches between the lower bivy and the col so an ice axe is very nice to have.  Crampons will be needed to access the ridge in the morning if it freezes overnight.  The final 100 meters of the West face descent is snow covered still so the axe came in handy there too.

Only a few spots at the bivy are snow free but there is ample running water and very few mosquitoes.

Have fun!

Mike Stuart
IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide
CanadianAlpineGuides.com