[MCR] Kokanee Glacier Park

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Some observations from a mountaineering course in Kokanee Park July 28-30.
 
The access road seems a little rougher than last year with some larger holes
and washboard sections although smaller cars were still making it up.
The trail above Kokanee Lake was largely snow free and easy travel.
 
Kokanee Lake
 
As the Woodbury access is closed due to a landslide we changed venues to the
west side of the park.  The Kokanee Lodge was full so we camped at the Kaslo
Lake campground which now has about 6 of 10 sites that are snow free.  The
campground is still melting out and drying up but the Keen, Garland and
Kaslo Lakes are entirely snow free.
 
The glacier is still entirely snow covered with no ice exposed.  With clear
skies overnight, we experienced +6C temps in camp at 5:30am.  Travel on snow
was excellent with a firm surface that carried well early in the day and
softened up to give excellent boot skiing in the afternoon.
 
On the 30th we climbed the NW Couloir to W Ridge of Mt. Kitchener via a
direct line up Smuggler's Ridge from camp that worked well with a bit of
route finding through the steeper brush to gain the ridge.  We used crampons
in the couloir but had soft snow in the top 10cm by 11am.
 
NW Couloir 
 
The moats were nice, comfy belays.  We took the centre exit to gain the rock
crux immediately.
 
Mt. Kitchener
 
Descending the glacier between the Battleship and Kitchener I noticed one
hole opening and could identify the bridge over the main upper crevasse but
these features are a long way from being problematic.
 
Kokanee Glacier
 
More photos at  <http://www.facebook.com/mountainsense>
www.facebook.com/mountainsense
 
Cheers,
Shaun King  ACMG / UIAGM Mountain Guide
 <http://www.mountainsense.ca> www.mountainsense.ca 
 
 
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