[MCR] Terrace Creek and Mt Saskatchewan area

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

My good friend Brian and I went to look at the Upper Terrace creek 
area to check this area out and look at  Mt Saskatchewan via the SW 
ridge. Aug 8th we bushwhacked our way from the big bend south of the 
Columbia Icefields up the right side of the creek that drains the 
north glacier of Mt Saskatchewan. This is quite tedious in places to 
say the least. Once reaching treeline we contoured up and right 
through the moraines the reach the upper cirque heading north of the 
towers, north of the main peak of Mt Sask.

Though a route is described through a col south of these towers the 
map showed gentler terrain through the north pass. One traverse on 
steep scree under a snow face was needed to gain this col.

 From the col we headed through a pass which put us in the head of 
Terrace creek under the North towers of Mt Sask. This took over 9 
long hours to a camp at 2300 metres.
The second day we headed to the pass heading to Castleguard meadows 
and up a small rounded summit of 2600 metres with spectacular views 
of the icefields area.

 From descriptions of the ascent route on the SW side of Mt 
Saskatchewan we planned on going to have a look and see. We brought a 
30 metres rope and our usual glacier travel gear.
A 2.5 km traverse around the peak was done in spectacular meadows to 
gain the East side of the SW ridge. Very tedious scree led to the 
first rock band. We scanned this cliff for a while and figured the 
first break just right of the ridge was the way. We climbed 2 short 
pitches of easy but very loose fifth class to the second ledge. We 
looked around for the second break but must not have traversed far 
enough as everything we looked at was steep, definitely 5th class and 
wet in many places.  It did not make sense to lead up with a short 
rope and a few slings hoping for the best. We enjoyed the scenery, 
filled water bottles from some of the many drips and slowly made our way back.

The following day we retraced our route to the col, climbed a peak 
just to the north and then descended into the basin again and down the creek.

For the climb of Mt Saskatchewan I would think about a longer rope, 
even a 50m twin rope, and maybe a few pins if you get off route. We 
found a few horns on the first section that were useable.
Many Kudo's to the hard cores like Rick Collier who climb  up and 
down this chossy rock without a rope!
A camp a bit closer might have been a good idea, but you have to 
carry it all back up and out again.

It was also  good way to scope out the Pat Sheehan circuit which uses 
this area to make a ski loop into Castleguard meadows.

An important last note is that the map to this area is all 40 metre 
contours....there is a lot of features that just do not show up....

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide




Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann at incentre.net
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