[MCR] Coast Mountains - Tantalus Range

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Here is some info from the Tantalus Group just outside Squamish.

 

The mountains were very dry, observed no rockfall as there appeared to be
very few remaining snow patches. A few centimeters of moist snow overlying
firm old snow or ice made for slippery and annoying walking but balled up
crampons were preferable to not wearing any.

 

Serratus Pk. - Crevasses on Serratus N face were easily managed and the
bergshrund was overcome by traversing climbers right to a short rock spur.
We descended via the bolted W face route which was probably a better than
the chossy S gulley but you must pull your ropes and downclimb loose
downsloping terrain before reaching the next anchor.

 

Mt Dionne  - The only place I saw to cross the bergschrund was on the
climbers R of the face. A wide stem between the glacier and the stone got us
on the face but am uncertain how long this option will exist with present
rates of melting. A large snow mushroom above forced us to climb rotten 5.7
rock to eventually easier ground and the summit.

 

Tim Pochay

IFMGA Guide

 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://six.pairlist.net/pipermail/mcr/attachments/20120812/81fe7d54/attachment.html>