[MCR] Sky Ladder, Mt. Andromeda, Banff Park.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

On Thursday August 9th I guided two guests on Mt. Anderomeda's Skyladder
route. The route is definitely a long  ice climb right now and a heck of a
calf burner. The Schrund is not easily passed.  Near the right hand side, I
had to dig out a bit of a ramp in order to climb through the overhanging
schrund wall. I was able to protect the insecure snow climbing with an ice
screw in good ice. Glad I had several pairs of gloves as this got them
totally soaked. After this,  several pitches of great ice followed. Near
the top of the main ice shield, below a prominent pinnacle. We took a right
hand turn off the glacier, rounding and gaining the shoulder where we
ascended a little chimney of quite good rock. This led us to talus/scree
slopes which gain the summit and bypassed several more pitches of low
angled ice, thus gaining us time as we were able to move together here. We
followed the summit ridge to the top in mostly firm snow with limited post
holing. Several cornices are still overhanging here. On the way to the
summit is a strange sagging crevasse bridge, I looked at crossing
underneath this feature but found hidden crevasses. We passed it by staying
on the ridge proper.


>From the summit we went down to the AA col. A good landmark when following

the narrow little buttress that leads to the AA col raps is a large square
free standing stone with a narrow gap on its left. Take this gap and it
will lead you to the first anchor. Cairns can also be seen while looking
down from the narrow rocky ridge. We did one rappel (bypassing others)  and
down climbed to the col.  From the col there is a three pin anchor and then
we made several v-thread raps eventually gaining the climbers left hand
side of the AA, where with two rap stations on the rock will get you past
the big overhanging schrund - very exciting rappel!

We did not get a very good freeze overnight and had the occasional rock
come down, but mainly things were quiet and the ice is not strewn with many
imbedded rocks that could melt out at this time, though they have the
potential to come from the several rock walls along the route - be cautious
particularly of any gully features above you while on route - hone is able
to position stations underneath buttress features rather than gully
features. The anchors to the AA and over the Schrund are as manky as ever.

I would put the condition of the Skyladder as definitely more difficult
right now than when one can kick steps up snow in the early season, as well
add a more difficult schrund crossing, however the quality of that ice is
excellent - a fantastic outing. The Selected Alpine climbs calls this route
a II undertaking, I would say right now it is in III condition and a very
early start is required for several reasons - rock fall, better firmer
snow, lengthy day.

Walking down the glacier from the AA back to the snowcoach road was in
slushy snow with very weak crevasse bridges. Several holes are apparent
where someone had found a crevasse - caution required here.

Happy trails,

*Eric Dumerac* <http://www.facebook.com/MountainSkillsAcademy>* - Professional
Mountain Guide *
** <http://www.mountainskillsacademy.com/>*Mountain Skills
Academy*<http://www.mountainskillsacademy.com>
*Owner/Operator*
 *[image: Inline image 2][image: Inline image 3]


*
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