[MCR] Mounts Victoria & Lefroy, Abbotts Pass - Rockies

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hey all,
Up to Abbott Pass again this weekend for ascents of both Mount Victoria and Lefroy. Conditions have really only been getting better on Victoria it seems, and yesterday gave great travel mostly on dry rock with one of the better (if not only) solid freezes I've had this summer. Not much ice poking through the snowy sections yet and still solid steps or good cramponing while climbing up and down over the sickle and the other usual tricky snowy bits. We put the crampons on at the top of the black band and were able to take them off at the junction with the gullies leading down west down toward Mount Huber and finish to the main summit without them. All in all couldn't have asked for a better trip up.
Lefroy has changed a fair bit since I was up last week. There's now about 120m or so of continuous ice to gain the summit ridge, and this time around having a few screws was definitely useful. I don't think the route is long for this season, given the amount of change in the last week alone. There's been a definite increase in the amount of rockfall observed/heard. Given the growing potential for it, it would be wise not to put yourself underneath anybody for any reason up there right now given the conditions. It seems pretty likely that exiting the ice to the summit ridge will send at least a few rocks clattering down the face, but probably worse than that ...and despite the best efforts of myself and another guide up there today, there really is nowhere to hide when it comes down.If you and a partner are alone on the face, there might be a little life left in it (and the ability to get up and down safely), but not much.
Huber looked like it was in pretty good shape from our view on Victoria as well.
Have fun out there, and play safe!


Mike TrehearneAlpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide
Cloud Nine GuidesTrip Photos Up at:www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
or email:mike at cloudnineguides.com 		 	   		  
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