[MCR] Rockies: Robson, Kain Face

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

On Thursday, August 16, twelve climbers from three different parties climbed the Kain Route on Mt Robson (aka Yuh-hai-has-kun). One party walked up from the road and the other two flew into the Dome.

The mousetrap icefall on the upper Robson Glacier seems well nigh impassable. The party that came from the valley used the bypass ridge.

The schrund beneath the Kain Face proper was surmounted on the centre left beneath the runnels and cornice in the photo. This option may not exist for much longer.

From the schrund to the summit was nearly all snow climbing. The snow varied from very hard to good steps. Anchors were t-slots and vertical pickets, although beneath the hard surface crust the snow was unconsolidated and bomber snow anchors sometimes took some work.

The Roof was climbed close to the ridgeline. The last schrund before the summit was the crux. This was overcome both on the right side along the ridge (steeper) and via a bridge further left (this bridge may not last long). It seems possible to make a long traverse left to bypass this schrund.

Other peaks in the area (see photos) - 

Resplendent: Crevassey but looks doable.

Helmet: Difficult crevasses, numerous overhead hazards and gaping bergschrunds precluded an attempt from The Dome.

Whitehorn: The approach glaciers for the N Face/W Ridge would be difficult/impossible due to crevasses and glide cracks.

Grant Meekins
Todd Craig
Tim McAllister
Merrie-Beth Board
Mark Klassen

(ACMG guides of various certifications)



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