[MCR] Bugaboos - Purcells

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hey there,

Just back from 4 days work in the Bugaboos.
Most of last weeks snow had melted off by the time we left today with the exception of higher elevation north faces, which were still looking a little bit snowy.

Raining and still snowing up high Friday afternoon when we walked in. We went up to climb the West Ridge of Pigeon on Saturday, finding hoar frost and verglas the length of the ridge. Sounded like it had mostly dried out by the following day, leaving only a few slippery spots near the summit.
Sunday we climbed the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire, completely dry and and in great shape. 

The snow cover on the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col was starting to melt down from the ridge a fair way on the upper climbers right side. Noticeable increase in rockfall during the warm days we were there while the face was in full view of the sun - catching it while it was still cold and frozen seemed like enough for now to keep what rock is exposed, locked in place.
The bergschrunds are starting to widen more and more, but still easily passable. 

Have fun out there!

Mike Trehearne
Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide

Cloud Nine Guides
Trip Photos Up at:
www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
or email:
mike at cloudnineguides.com
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