[MCR] More Waterton Ice Info.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just to add to Conrad's last post:
 
Spent the last few days playing on some of the routes down in Waterton. 
Quick and Dirty & Experts Choice (Centre Line) are both climbable, but both probably harder than what the guidebook has them at. Both were absolutely soaked, and had long sections of ice poorly bonded with the rock behind and/or thin enough not to self support overly well. A light touch and choosing the best supported/bonded line got us through them ok.
Protection is challenging on both, mostly due to the amount of running water.
 
There's a few other climable lines in the Quick and Dirty area that would be good to go but similar in character to the lines described above. One at WI3 and the other solid WI5. Both soaking wet as well.
 
As Conrad mentioned in his post - both these areas seem like they could use just a bit more time to really be good to go.
 
I'll have some photos of the routes up (link below), when we get home tommorow night for those interested.
 
Have fun out there!
 
Mike Trehearne
Alpine Guide & Apprentice Ski Guide
 

Cloud Nine Guides

Photos up at:
www.facebook.com/cloudnineguidesor email:
mike at cloudnineguides. 



Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2012 15:36:57 -0800
To: mcr at informalex.org
From: mcr at informalex.org
Subject: [MCR] Ice Conditions in Waterton Lakes, 12/12/12



For the Southern Alberta crew...
 
Most of the "Compound Gullies" and other lower angled routes on Mount Crandell are now thick enough to climb and have little or no snow on or above them at this point.  Expect some thin ice in spots and especially on some of the tops outs.
 
"Quick and Dirty" is climbable but is still a bit thin and harder than it normally is.
 
"Experts Choice" is touching down but also a bit on the thin side.  Expect it to also be more difficult than the usual rating, it could probably still use a little time.
 
"Lineham Falls" and "The Shining" are in shape.  The trail in has minimal avalanche hazard at this time, although there is avalanche hazard on the approach to "The Shining".  Skis or snowshoes are reccommended. 
 
Several other climbs on Buchanan Ridge on the Akamina Parkway are also in and getting thicker each day.  
 
Enjoy, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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