[MCR] Rockies-Ghost ice- the Fang and the Fist and the Rat and the Tat

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed the Fang and the Fist in the Ghost on saturday the 31st. Good challenging driving for a moderate clearance 4x4 on marked trail to Malamute valley. Lots of water to 30cm deep- brakes still freezing up today. Route is in good shape, first 5 m's is the crux with hooking chandeliers and hard to protect until you reach the 1st ledge. Good stout grade 4/5 climbing on all three steep sections and the hooking gets more secure after that first bit. We got off in 3 rope stretching rappels with one 70m rope.

No avalanche hazard at present on the route but walking off looked like it might involve crossing some nasty drifts/windslabs with death-consequence rides

Interestingly, packrats had completely eaten the exposed part of the abalokovs at the top. Wasn't sure what had happened till I noticed the rat raisins around the tat. Never seen that before, the damage should be obvious but it is just another reason to back up abalokovs with more abalokovs.

Happy New Year,
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide




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