[MCR] Rockies, Wilcox Peak, NE Buttress Mt Kidd

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided an ascent of the SE ridge of Mt Wilcox on June 28th. Still lots of snow up there with several long fall-away snow slopes that I advise having an ice axe to cross, and the ability to self arrest with the ice axe. It will be awhile before the ridge is dry enough to be in "scramble" shape.

Yesterday, June 29th, I guided an ascent of the NE Buttress of Mt Kidd. First time on that route for me and we found it to be a challenging adventure trad climb for the grade, and from cool hands and feet on the first couple of pitches. Overall the climb feels a lot like the N Ridge of EEOR with not as good rock quality and only one in situ piton and one bolt en route. If I were going back I'd bring 6 pitons rather than just 3, as I did yesterday. Research the Mt Kidd Lookout trail info before going. From the top of the Buttress we were able to walk down the backslopes down to ribbon creek. A refreshing thigh deep creek fording got us onto the Ribbon Creek trail systems which are well signed and easy to follow back to the car.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com