[MCR] September 9, Mt. Aberdeen, Rockies and Ice holes on the Athabasca

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Greetings,

I guided two guests part way up Mt. Aberdeen before the forecast P.O.P of
30% became 100% in the form of driving sheets of rain and freezing winds. I
had brought a second rope to lessen the number of rappels off the ice
tongue and was glad of it!

Apart from that brutal weather, Aberdeen is in about as good condition as I
have seen it. We took the upper approach trail in and this was a good
choice since on the way back we were loath to go uphill and followed the
drainage back. This has almost no more snow that usually speeds things up
here. A bit of a tedious knee jarring affair currently but not too bad.

The lower serac that threatens the approach ice tongue seems smaller and
less threatening than usual but do not be fooled. A big, big fellow is
hanging there and though not teetering it will inevitably go at some point.
One can gear up out of hazards way and adopt a lower traverse plenty far
away before angling towards the ice tongue.

The initial couple of pitches are beautiful polished aqua colored ice with
little in the way of imbedded rocks. The upper firn line is quite high with
spongy snow to the bergschrund. There are some big crevasses to negotiate
but they have excellent albeit exposed bridges of ice that are easily
crossed. The schrund also has good bridges. The little serac that lives
above the upper bergschrund on final approach to the Haddo/Aberdeen col is
tamer than I have seen it in the past and seems to be rounding more and
more on its left margin.

Surprisingly we did not get much snow accumulation, mainly rain and wet
melting snow. We did 4 X 60 meter rappels down the ice tongue. Reading the
Selected Alpine Climbs description, having done this classic several
times,  I am reminded again how many routes described in this great book
are downplayed. The approach is not that short, I do not agree that the
climbing is 'not to technical' after all, when your using two ice axes and
doing hanging belays, I'd say that's actually plenty technical eh? The
descent actually involves several rappels on v-threads. Or one may venture
down the Paradise Valley exit, which several experienced alpinist's have
assured me is a long helish affair.

Happy trails,



*Eric Dumerac* <http://www.facebook.com/MountainSkillsAcademy>* - Professional
Mountain Guide *
** <http://www.mountainskillsacademy.com/>*Mountain Skills
Academy*<http://www.mountainskillsacademy.com>
*Owner/Operator*
 *[image: Inline image 2][image: Inline image 3]


*
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