[MCR] Rockies, Mt Andromeda, Eisenhower Tower, Aftenroe

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

On Sept 12th I guided an attempt on the AA Col route of Mt Andromeda. Winter in the morning and summer in the afternoon. Brewster's monster truck ice bus window washing pail was frozen one foot deep when we passed by it in the wee hours. The bergshrunds below the Earth Gullies and the normal AA Col slope (A route I like to call "Little Earth") all look challenging so we chose an easy crossing closer to Athabasca. Above was four ropelengths of good quality low end alpine ice and snow climbing to gain the col. We turned around at the Andromeda side of the col due to moderate to strong wind gusts and my Japanese client feeling the altitude.

Sept 13th, Indian Summer and we were the only party on Le Soulier on Tunnel Mountain.

Sept 14th, a beautiful day on Eisenhower Tower via the right hand variation suggested in the new, and long awaited, Banff Rock. There is indeed less fixed gear on this side, we found one piton. Some recent snow clinging to the Rockbound Lake side of Goat Plateau, but the Tower is bone dry.

Sept 15th, build it and they will come, we were at the lead end of five parties on Aftenroe, Guides Rock, Mt Cory (one party leaving the base as we walked away to total 6). There is a need for good quality bolted routes of intermediate difficulty.

Happy trails,
 
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

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Mt Andromeda, Sept 12th. The ice lines of the  Earth Climbs from left to right: Little Earth, Far Earth, Middle Earth and Near Earth (you see them in reverse as you walk up the AA Glacier).

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Eisenhower Tower, Sept 14th.