[MCR] The Lyells August 7 to 11

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just got back from spending 5 days climbing all of the Lyells Peaks except for Lyell 1(Rudolph Peak).   Here are some of my observations:  Christian Peak (Lyell 5) South Ridge is all rock; this week was not a snow climb as the book suggested.  Most of the cornices on  Walter Peak (Lyell 4) have fallen off, only couple small sections are hanging in.   Edward Peak (Lyell 2) West Ridge was a maze of crevasses to the summit, not as straight forward as the book suggests.   They were relatively small but you still need to be cautious.  Those crevasses run horizontally and vertically to the slope.
The bergschrund on  Ernest Peak (Lyell 3) runs right across, but easy to get over.   Every day that I was there, I noticed crevasses opening up more or bridges sagging with the warm temps, as well as the sun cups getting deeper. We didn't observe any rock falls and it was a great week in the mountains.

Marco Delesalle
 Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com












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