[MCR] Rockies Ice - South Ghost & Guinness Gulley

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Spent the last few days Ice Guiding in the Ghost and Field.
Spent Saturday in the Recital Hall in the South Ghost. The drive in was in good shape both in and out. A few vehicles punching through the ice en route to the main parking lot, but couldn't have been more than half a wheel well deep.Really warm on solar aspects and my guests and I were almost down to baselayers as we climbed Aquarius. The route is taking a lot of sun effect and at least the top 10cm's of the ice has rotted out. Protection is still reasonable, just need to dig a bit in places.Rainbow Serpent has still got the a large fracture at the top of the pillar on the first pitch - hasn't healed at all, and is wide open the whole way through about 3 inches.
Yesterday we went down and climbed Guinness Gulley in Field. Busy day with 5 parties all trying to sort themselves out on the route. All three pitches have been tottaly hammered out, and you could potentially only need to swing your tools for about 10m on the last pitch. We rapped the route and watched as the 6th party of the day headed up at 4pm.
Seems like busy days like yesterday require more chatting with the climbers around you. Seems like a good idea to work with the people climbing in front of or behind you and figure out what their plans are. It would probably make everyone more comfortable in the long run.
Happy climbing.
Mike TrehearneAlpine Guide / Apprentice Ski Guide

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