[MCR] Rockies, Rogan's Gully, Guiness Gully

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Gully days. I guided an ascent of Rogan's Gully yesterday, Feb 17. A large avalanche ran down the climb sometime in the last two weeks? I suspect it was triggered by the sun on one of the recent spring like days in the Bow Valley. The slide ran from the start zone above the climb, down the whole length of the climb, and filled up the creek bed to the end of the the run-out zone. Explains the down-to-the-dirt slopes that I'd been looking at above the climb before the snows of the last 36 hrs. The climb is filled in well with good walking between ice steps. At least one of the rappel anchors is now buried, as is the first 15 feet of the narrows pitch. We found 5.5 mixed climbing on the right hand finish to the narrows -some knees and chimney like grooveling. The last pitch is getting bigger and bluer.

Cascade has taken an hit with the sun and doesn't look safe at present.

Today, Feb 18th, I guided an ascent of Guiness Gully. Loads of hooking and standing into ice "footsteps". Good screws and only a couple of centimetres of new snow.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com