[MCR] Mt. Sir Donald Info July 12th 2013

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Fri Jul 12 13:47:08 EDT 2013


Hi Everyone,

Greeting from the Roger's Pass.

We wanted to pass along some pertinent information regarding the Sir Donald
approach trail, recent rockfall activity above the Bypass descent route on
the West Face and some updated info on the Sir Donald descent rappels.

First of all, a Sow Grizzly with 2 cubs has been frequenting the lower
elevation areas on and around the Sir Donald (and Perly Rock) approach
trails and a Bear Warning has been issued for these trails and the rest of
the Asulkan Valley. This is NOT a closure but we are advising climbers to
use common sense and practice safe travel procedures. Make noise as you
travel, carry bear spray, keep an eye on bear signs such as flipped rocks,
digs, droppings etc. Keep dogs on leash (better still, leave the dog with
your mother in law) and report any bear sightings to Parks Canada staff.

Recent postings have described the NW Ridge of Sir Donald being in good
condition and some parties have confirmed this to be the case, however the
West Face Bypass still has snow patches on it and will be likely another
week or so before it completely dries up.

When it does dry out, something to note with regards to the Bypass; there
has been a series of rockfall events originating in terrain above the
Bypass. The first and largest rockfall event occurred on Tuesday, July 2nd
and left a visible rockfall scar above the Bypass. Since the first event,
a series of rockfall releases have been observed on Friday, July 5th and
again on Wednesday, July 10th by Parks Canada Visitor Safety Techs. This
rockfall scar is a direct action source of rockfall hazard to climbers
descending across the West Face Bypass and caution is being advised when
considering your options for descending. Also consider the additional
loose rock on the Bypass itself which could potentially affect the footing
in an exposed section of the mountain.

Last week, Visitor Safety Specialists have added a Rappel Ring Bolt to the
final Rap Station (#12) that was missing since the end of late last summer
when it was repositioned: Please refer to this post
http://acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp for clarity. The stations have been
repositioned approximately 40-45 meters to the climber's left or skier's
right on the darker quartzite which mitigates the overhead hazards from the
corner above.

Finally, a reminder to all visitors of Glacier National Park. If you have a
Telus or Bell cellular plan, coverage exists GNP and the number to call is
1 877 852 3100 - Parks Emergency Dispatch. It is a number worth programming
into your phone. This number is the most direct way to get through to
Visitor Safety should a rescue be needed. If you don't have a cell or are
using another carrier such as Rogers or Fido, you may still be able to call
911 (be advised that results have been mixed on this) or consider a SPOT
device as an alternative.

Play Safe,
**

**

Paddy Jerome
Visitor Safety Technician
ACMG/IFMGA
Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250 814 3524
patrick.jerome at pc.gc.ca
www.parksmountainsafety.ca
www.parcsecuritemontagne.ca
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