[MCR] Rockies, East Ridge of Mt Temple

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided an ascent of the East Ridge of Mt Temple yesterday, July 14th. The route is in good early season shape with a healthy amount of snow above the Big Step (the Big Step is dry and climbed fine). We put on crampons for the traverse to the exit gully, good step kicking yesterday in firm summer snow that had the top 10 cms softened by the sun but frozen under that as the day was quite cool. We followed the double-ring-bolt-anchor-exit which is found by traversing to a chimney/pinnacle where the first two ring bolts are found, basically straight up from there. I didn't find the third ring bolt station as it is under snow and ice right now. We avoided the use of crampons in the exit gully, which is largely rock climbing, by kicking, or cutting, steps in the snow and ice when we had to touch it. The summit glacier is holding snow and provided good step kicking with crampons on.

The descent is pocked with strips and patches of snow and ice that demanded some deviations from the prime line.

Several other parties on the route and mountain that we caught up with in Larch Valley.

A grizzly sow and cub crossed the Moraine Lake  parking lot within 10 metres of me at 10 pm as I sat waiting for my young gun client to cycle up and retrieve the Van. He had the bear spray so I retreated to the washrooms. The sow and cub ambled off into the timber, thankfully uninterested in me.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

on the Big Step:

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