[MCR] Columbia Icefields

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Mon Jul 15 13:52:36 EDT 2013


Fellow mountaineers,

Returning from 11 days at the Icefields, most recently a 5 day Intro Mountaineering course w the British Army w fellow guides James Blench and Fred Amyot. The following points are add to recent MCRs:

Cooler temps have improved travel conditions. Good refreeze past two nights carried well until mid afternoon

Boundary Glacier shield (left side) is 2-3 pitches of good alpine ice. Snow (firn) line has moved up to 24-2500m elev.

Silverhorn has 0-40cm snow coverage. It is possible to protect the entire route w ice screws. Exit right to stay on neve and avoid final bony pitches.

NF Athabasca looks like thin bony ice and rock. Be prepared for mixed climbing and bring rock gear.

Steady rain overnight produced snow above 2600m.

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
CAA Level 2
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone


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