[MCR] Rockies - Icefields Parkway - Weeping Wall

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Today, with Swiss friends Sylvan and Sam, we made an ascent of the Weeping Wall. Slightly overcast skies and cool morning temps minimized overall warming of the route. The first pitches were brittle where the water was not running, until the sun came around.

Snivelling Gully - the lower pitch opened up during the last chinook. It's healing but is a hollow tube at this time. 

Lower Weeping Wall LHS - the midpoint of this route fell off during the last chinook. It's trying to heal but doesn't look stable at this time. It may be possible to sneak up on the left towards Snivelling Gully and then back to rejoin the final pitch.

Lower Weeping Wall Central Pillar - it's a steep dry chandeliered pillar about 3m in diameter.

Lower Weeping Wall RHS - the most continuous line on the wall right now, taking good protection throughout.

All the topouts of the Lower Wall are thin or dry requiring special attention.

Weeping Pillar - P1 was chandeliered and sun affected. It was 80m to a protected belay behind the P2 pillar. P2 was steep, unconsolidated ice, wet with limited protection. We chose to climb between the fluted domes 70m to another cave belay. P3 was a hollow tube to the roof, 30m to where the angle eases. Very wet.

Little ice released from the rock on either side of the Upper Weeping Wall today.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com

Teardrop and Weeping Pillar
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