[MCR] Rainbow serpent.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

To add to Chris Irwin's previous post.

I guided a very fat rainbow serpent today. 

With my two guests, Glen and Anthony, I avoided the low angle apron via a nearly walking approach on the left.

From Chris' thread (10mm rope) it's 55m to the top thread in the flats above the route. 
The climbing was mainly overhanging, leg  heel hooks and all. There was lots of cleaning and no sign of travel. 
Below the top (30m) the climbing eases to WI5. It was wet and mostly protectable.

On the upper section, there was a considerable amount of new ice since the previous ascents.  We found an abalalov up high 20m down from the top covered by about 3/4 of a meter of new icicles. 

The route is fatter than any picture I have observed and has much larger feature as well. However it was my first time on the route.

From the top, the shorter fearful symmetry looks much worse than from its base. I believe it to possibly be done for the season. It has 4 significant fractures.

We enjoyed great new bolted anchors all the way down Aquarius.

Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide 
Yamnuska Mountain adventures.