[MCR] Mount Garibaldi NE Face - Coast Mountains, July 4 2014

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hi MCR readers,

Guided the NE face of Mount Garibaldi yesterday via the Brohm Ridge.  The route is in great and relatively easy shape.   

Approach:  The normal road to Brohm Ridge is closed as a bridge is out, you must continue up the road past Cat Lake.  10km from the highway to the final locked gate.  The road was fine for my stock Tacoma, some loose rocky section but otherwise ok for a 4x4 with good clearance. 
From the Sledders cabin the route is pretty much entirely on snow.  The snow was well set up both in the morning and afternoon on return.  I wouldn't expect any issues with this snow except after a rain event.

Route:  Once on the glacier we encountered some very large bridged crevasses but with careful route selection the trip up to the Bergchrund was uneventful and straightforward.   The Bergchrund was passed on the left side easily with one steep section to the snow arete.  From the summit we reversed our tracks with out any sort of rappel.   A previous party had ascended and rappelled the middle direct section of the Bergschrund.  This didn't look possible to climb up anymore but with a fixed snow anchor it would be possible to rappel.  However i don't think this would be any faster than the line we took.  

Excellent conditions!!  I would highly recommend taking advantages of the nice glacier travel and straightforward Bergschrund and climb this peak sooner than later. 

The Bergschrund looking out towards the snow arete 






Our ascent and decent line 




Ross Berg

Mountain Guide (IFMGA / ACMG) - Altus Mountain Guides
Email: ross at altusmountainguides.com
Web: www.altusmountainguides.com



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