[MCR] Mt Garibaldi - July 12

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Had a great day on Garibaldi on Saturday July 12. As a follow-up to Ross's
report last week, the north side glaciers have great snow coverage, very
good shape for mid-July, though the current hot weather is melting
everything out quite quickly. Picture below is looking out from the summit
over the Warren Glacier and usual approach route. The standard line is in
perfect shape now, up the face to exit the bergschrund on climbers left with
a 10 meter section of steeper snow to gain the upper ridge. There should be
a couple of weeks left on this route, but the left side exit on the schrund
is breaking down and will become its usual unsupported jumble of ice blocks
sooner or later, sooner if the weather stays hot. Snow conditions on steep
slopes are "ok" in the early morning, but overnight temperatures did not get
below the mid-teens, so by mid/early morning the snow lost a lot of
strength, especially on steeper slopes  - be aware of any slopes with open
crevasses or cliffs below you at this time of year as there is still enough
unconsolidated snow to form wet surface avalanches, not to mention weak snow
bridges.

 

Brian Jones, ACMG Mountain Guide

Canada West Mountain School

E-mail: brian at themountainschool.com

Web:  <http://www.themountainschool.com/> www.themountainschool.com  

 

View over the Warren Glacier, July 12, 2014

Garibaldi-2 July 12-2014.jpg

 

 

View up the Northeast Face of Garibaldi, July 12, 2014Garibaldi-1 July
12-2014.jpg

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