[MCR] Mt Victoria N Summit

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided an ascent of the N Summit of Mt Victoria yesterday for Yamnuska.com.

The Swiss Guides trail from the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse is in great shape. Thank you Parks.

We found great consolidated snow on the glacier which made for easy travel. The bergshrund is easy to cross in numerous places. Most of the cornice at the centre of the Victoria-Collier col is gone. We climbed the central gully which was still holding some soft snow.

Above the col, conditions are deteriorating. There is still a cornice along the ridge with visible cracking. Some older tracks wandered out onto this snow, we stuck to visible rock. We were able to utilize the N snow slope to bypass the rock ridge but in most places we were penetrating to ice. Crampons were useful here.

At this time there is snow well past the toe of the glacier. Water is available at the teahouse or the black band.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com

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Victoria-Collier col centre
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NE Ridge N Victoria w N snow slopes


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